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Construct a Paver Patio

May 6, 2011 By pgyourcr Leave a Comment

People like to create a paver patio because of its several advantages. Once you have constructed the paver patio it will last for a long time. It does not need much maintenance. Cleaning of a paver patio does not necessitate much effort. A little bit of brooming and a gentle power washing is enough. If any of the paver stones acquire damaged, they can be simply replaced with new ones.

To begin with, you have to discover the position where you would like to install a paver patio then fix on the size and shape of the paver patio. Usually, square and rectangular shaped paver patios are chosen because they can be produced easily. Mark the location accordingly with the help of a string and get the measurements so that you can choose the number of pavers you have to obtain. Always purchase a few pieces of pavers extra as they can be used when some of them need to be replaced.

Preparation of the Base
The first step to create a paver patio is to prepare the base for the patio, for which you need some common garden tools. This is a very main step as the success of the paver patio project largely depends on how well the base surface has been prepared. Clear the sod, debris, rocks, and bricks from the area with the help of a square shovel. Then dig the soil with a deepness of around 4 inches for the paver and the sand. It includes two inches for the paver and one inch for the sand base.

If there is poor soil in any area then a deeper base will be essential. To ensure that the depth of the base is uniform, you can use a string to measure in some random areas of the dug surface. If the patio is adjacent to the house, then you have to make a slope for proper drainage. A slope of one inch in an area of 8 feet will be just right for this purpose. Create marks with strings on the ground after a gap of every 8 feet and remove some extra soil as you move away. The soil of the dug surface has to be leveled and made compact using a tamper to make it more flat. Otherwise the surface of the patio will be irregular.

Addition of Sand
when a flat compact base has been prepared, it’s time to put in paver’s sand on it. You have to extend one inch of sand on the surface to raise the stability of the patio and for a enhanced drainage system. To get uniformly leveled sand, take two PVC pipes of one inch diameter and lay them a few feet away from each other. These pipes will act as the screed rails. Continue to add sand in the areas neighboring the pipes and then fill up the entire area.

Insertion of the Paver Stones
Now place the pavers as per the patio design that you have considered. Make sure that the pavers are fitted very tightly in order to make the pattern more important. Once you have completed filling up the area with paver stones, you may find some spaces on the edges where the entire piece of the paver cannot be fitted in. This happens more when there are more number of curves, and not so much in square-shaped and rectangular-shaped patios. In that case, you have to cut the paver stones with the assist of a masonry blade or circular saw. You have to take measurement of the gaps. Put a cardboard over the gap and spot the line on which the stone has to be cut. Use this as a sample and cut the stone as per that size. As a final touch, pour some sand on the newly laid paver stones and broom it into the gaps in between the stones to secure the pavers. Thus, the project of building a paver patio comes to an end. Rarely, keep adding sand to the gaps as the sand is washed away by rain water.

A paver patio is a wonderful home improvement idea. To build a paver patio, it is not essential that you have to use the concrete ones only. There are other options that are available as well. Stones like granite or limestone can be used for this purpose too. However, it is a costly option and you should avail it only if your budget is high. Otherwise, you can use brick, as it can give a flexible look to the patio without costing you too much. A last word of advice is to make sure that your patio blends somewhat with the outdoor furniture or patio furniture that you have in your garden or backyard.

 

 

Samaya is a famous author about the landscaping and Landscape Design.For details about pavers visit:http://gfycontractors.com/


Article from articlesbase.com

Pacific Pavingstone goes through the step of properly installing Paving Stones. www.pacificoutdoorliving.com
Video Rating: 4 / 5

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Brick Paver Installation & Edging

May 6, 2011 By pgyourcr Leave a Comment

Article by Kurt Glave

Staging of material

Most paver projects will vary depending on access, site conditions, project size and of course, the weather. These situations can have an overall impact on your project from a timing stand point. Careful consideration should be taken to determine the time to start the paver installation. Always try to minimize or avoid any traffic on the prepared areas.

The foreman or project manager should always have the materials (sand / pavers) distributed around the project site for easy and efficient installations. Paver pallets/bundles should be placed in a manner not to interfere with the paver installation. The proper pallet/bundle placement can make the actual project installation easier and quicker by reducing the overall labor of handling the material.

Brick paver patterns

Pavers can be placed in many different patterns depending on their shape. Each paver shape will generally have several different hatch patterns that are provided by the manufacturer.

The laying pattern and shape of the paver is very critical to the performance of the application. Contractors need to take into consideration the traffic weight loads on their paver projects. 90 or 45 degree herringbone patterns are recommended in all street and driveway applications, as these patterns will provide the maximum load support needed and will resist creeping from the turning of tires and starting or braking of vehicular traffic. In most applications worldwide, it has been shown that pavers laid in a herringbone pattern have performed adequately.

Pavers that are 60 mm (2 – 3/8 in) thickness are suitable for pedestrian applications. Pavers that are going to be used in commercial or industrial applications should be 80 mm (3 – 1/8 in) in thickness.

Reference/starting point for brick paver installation

There are a number of conditions that determine the starting point of a paver project.

When starting to install pavers it is best to snap a true straight chalk line on the surface of the bedding sand or pull a true straight string line above the surface of the bedding sand at the finished elevation of the pavers. This will help as a guide for maintaining straight joint lines and will also allow the installer to make adjustments in the alignment of the pavers.

Buildings and concrete curbing are generally not straight and should not be used for establishing straight joint lines. The use of string lines is essential to determine the true straightness of the edge as well. As the paver installation progresses, the string lines will help minimize the need for small trim pieces.

Joint width between pavers should be between 1/16 and 3/16 in (2 and 5 mm ). There are some pavers with spacer bars on their sides. These will maintain a minimum joint width and allow the bedding and jointing sand to enter between each paver. Pavers with spacer bars are generally not laid in snug against each other since a string line will provide consistent joint spacing.

Installation of brick pavers

One of the most widely used methods for the installation of pavers is hand installation of each paver. It is best to install a single row of pavers along one of the true straight lines that you have pulled or above the bedding sand. This will give you a straight and true line off which to work. Once this row is established, you can continue to work outward into the field with the rest of the pavers. Always make sure to periodically check your joint lines to make sure they are true and straight. If not, adjustments to the pavers can be made as you continue installing. Pavers should be installed hand tight. The best method is to place a paver against another one and let it slide down into the bedding sand. Do not kick or tap the pavers into place as this can throw your lines out of true straightness.

When installing pavers on a steep grade, they should be installed at the base of the grade going uphill. This will prevent the pavers from creeping as they are being laid.

On large commercial and industrial applications, hand laying pavers would not be cost effective due to the labor intensity. The best way for installing pavers on large projects is to install them mechanically. The use of a mechanical laying machine can install approximately 6000 – 7000 sq ft a day. There are a couple items a contractor should consider before installing pavers mechanically:

1.) Mechanical installers are only capable of installing pavers in certain patterns.

2.) The contractor must make sure that the manufacturer is capable of manufacturing and bundling pavers in the desired pattern on the pallets for easy mechanical installation.

3.) Contractors may encounter a color blending situation coming off the bundles of pavers. Poor color blending could result in a patchy looking installation. Most manufacturers are consistent with color blending on each bundle of pavers, but it is the contractor’s responsibility to ensure proper blending in the field.

Cutting procedures for brick pavers

Contractors typically have two ways of cutting pavers. Pavers are cut either by 1). A double bladed guillotine or by 2). A gas powered cut off saw or brick saw which is equipped with a diamond blade. The diamond blade cut-off saw or brick saw will provide a much cleaner and more accurate cut. Most brick saws will have a hose attachment on them which will allow the operator to cut the pavers wet. When cutting pavers wet, it will help minimize dust and will prolong the diamond blades life as well. The operator of the brick saw should always cut the pavers away from the surface of the paver field when cutting wet, due to the fact that the pavers will create a slurry that will stain the paver surface. Pavers that are cut should not fit tight, sufficient spacing should be available for jointing sand.

The brick saw operator should always wear the proper protection that is needed for operating a saw, such as eye, ear, respiratory and hand protection ).

Edging types

Edge restraints play a major role in the overall success of an interlocking pavement installation. Edging restraints eliminate lateral movement of the pavers and hold the pavers tightly together. Especially at the outer perimeter of the paver application, without an edging restraint, your project is guaranteed to fail over time.

There are several different edging restraints from which contractors can choose. Typically manufactured edge restraints are the most commonly used by contractors. Manufactured edging restraints can range from, plastic edging, steel and aluminum, timbers or precast concrete and stone. An edging type that is used primarily in commercial and industrial applications is poured-in-place concrete curbs. This edging restraint is typically installed by other contractors.

Edging installation

When installing your edge restraint, it should rest directly on top of the compacted gravel base. The compacted gravel base course should extend a minimum of 6in beyond the perimeter of the pavers. This will provide a proper foundation upon which the edging restraint can sit. Manufactured edging ( i.E. Plastic, steel or aluminum ) should be firmly anchored into the compacted gravel base( check with the manufacturer’s literature for the recommended spacing of the spikes). There are some edging restraints that will extend deeper into the gravel base or beyond the base course ( i.E. Timbers or poured-in-place curbs ). Edging restraints should never be placed directly on top of the bedding sand. This could result in the migration of the bedding sand and eventual lateral movement of the pavers. If there is a possibility of losing bedding sand between the pavers and the edge restraint, then geo textile fabric is recommended. When a gap between the pavers and the edging exceeds 3/8″ (10mm), then the space should be filled with cut pavers. All edging applications should be properly back filled after they are installed to help provide additional stability.

Compaction of brick pavers

After installation, the pavers need to be compacted. The entire area that is to be compacted should be swept clean of any foreign objects and debris that can cause scratching or scuffing on the surface of the pavers.

It is important to have a compactor that can exert between 3000lbs. And 5000 lbs. Of centrifugal compaction force. In addition, it is important that the first compaction takes place before any jointing sand has been applied to the pavers. If jointing sand is applied to the pavers before compaction takes place, this can cause a bridging problem and will not allow the joints to be completely filled with jointing sand. This can also prevent the pavers from being properly set into the bedding sand.

When compacting the pavers, it is recommended that you make at least two passes in different directions across the pavers. This will allow the pavers to be properly set in the bedding sand and will force the bedding sand up into the joints from the bottom of the pavers.

The compaction of the pavers is very critical to the final performance of the pavers. Failure to do proper compaction can result in deformations and pavement failure over time.

Kurt Glave has over 28 years of professional experience in the Landscape / Hardscape Industry. He also started the original Hardscape Expo & Conference Tradeshow and is now a Regional Sales Manager for RCP / http://www.silvercreekstoneworks.com http://www.outdoorlivingkits.com

About the Author

Kurt Glave has over 28 years of professional experience in the Landscape / Hardscape Industry. He also started the original Hardscape Expo & Conference Tradeshow and is now a Regional Sales Manager for RCP / http://www.silvercreekstoneworks.com http://www.outdoorlivingkits.com

Lowe’s home improvement expert, Mike Kraft, demonstrates how to finish your patio by installing paving stones. Make sure you know the pattern you would like to use before starting. Even though the foundation should be level, double check after you lay down your bricks. For those odd areas that the paver won’t fit, cut and make adjustments. You can use chisels, brick hammers and grinders to make clean cuts and edges. Once all the pavers have been set, place sand over the blocks and dampen with a garden hose. Finally, you can seal the pavers and start planting around the patio edge. To learn about more outdoor projects, visit www.Lowes.com

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Driveway Pavers – Things To Consider

May 6, 2011 By pgyourcr 1 Comment

Article by Eagle Bay Pavers

Concrete and asphalt driveways easily stain or crack, while dirt and gravel driveways look messy. These are reasons why many people are considering a popular new alternative. They are selecting beautiful, durable and maintenance free driveway pavers. A well-designed and properly installed driveway can add to the aesthetic appeal of your home, create opportunities for landscaping focal points, and significantly increase the value of your property.

There are two types of driveway pavers: mortared and unmortared. Mortared pavers have mortar between each paver and create a hardened non-flexible surface. This type of surface is prone to cracking and makes replacing a section or individual paver more difficult. On the other hand, mortar-less pavers are the preferred method. Instead of mortar, a special mixture of sand is used to make a very solid, but flexible driveway surface. Using this method, replacing a paver that has cracked is very easy.

Cobblestones pavers are often a first choice surface for a driveway. The negative aspect to this selection is that the stones have wide joints which encourage weed growth. Since they are uneven and not level with one another, their surface makes walking difficult. Cobblestones can be 3-4 times more expensive than concrete pavers. The truth of the matter is that while some people think cobblestones are more appealing to the eye, concrete pavers can be customized to achieve any look or design scheme. A concrete-paved surface, created from individual pavers, won’t crack like asphalt or poured-in-place concrete, or create an uneven surface like cobblestones. Each paver has joints that allow for a small amount of movement without cracking. Concrete pavers are stronger than stamped concrete or cobblestones and this provides you the assurance that the pavement for your driveway will look beautiful for a very long time.

The reason driveway pavers are so costly is because each piece has to be hand set one at a time. Consequently, each piece has a purchase price. Much time is spent hand laying these products, not to mention time spent creating the color and design patterns and cutting hundreds of them to fit together. Pavers can cost anywhere from.50 cents to as much as .00 per paver, and this depends on shape, color and size. Generally, the total cost per square foot runs anywhere from – sq/ft. Luckily, maintenance and upkeep does not come along with investing in driveway pavers. Pavers are easy to clean and require little maintenance. Semi-annual washing and sealing, along with yearly weed control applications are all that is required to keep your driveway looking like new.

About the Author

Eagle Bay is a provider of driveway pavers in Virginia as well as throughout the mid-Atlantic including NC, SC, MD, WV and PA.”

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